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| Before downing a shot or partaking of your next wee dram, gain a fuller appreciation of the drink in your hand |
Whiskey Business
by Patrick Sisson with Jay Rumisek
Jake Norris became a whiskey distiller through a chain of fateful circumstances.
“I made my first still when I was just 15,” he says. “I wasn’t looking to make
whiskey. I was really into the idea of alternate fuel sources.” Nor did he take a
slew of classes in chemistry or physics. “I was lucky enough to meet an old
moonshiner who taught me the process, and how to do things the old way.” The
rest he learned by devoted reading, and, of course, by cultivating a healthy taste
for his favorite spirit. Indeed, where creating the perfect whiskey is concerned,
taste is really at the center of the occupation. “Distilling is one of those things,
like cooking, where it’s important to start with the best ingredients. More so,
because you keep concentrating it and concentrating it. If you use low quality in
there, it’ll show.” So, as Head Distiller for Stranahan’s Colorado Whiskey, he uses
the highest quality ingredients available.
Jake is quick to point out that whiskey is one of the oldest spirits in existence,
if not the oldest. The facts are in constant dispute by experts, but he stands
by the “crusade” version of spirit distillation’s origin: “The
first distilling was done in Egypt, but it wasn’t
alcohol. They were making perfume. When the
English crusaders got down there, they liked the
stills enough that they brought some back. Then,
count on an Irishman to pour some beer into the
thing.” So was born uisce beatha in Gaelic: water of
life. “Over time,” says Jake, “the word uisce changed,
leaving us with ‘whisky’.” Or whiskey. Believe it or
not, though it’s mostly the same product, the ‘e’
does reflect some very important
differences, including from which side of
the Atlantic the spirit hails.
For more information visit
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SCOTCH
- Made mostly from barley, Scotch must be aged at least three years in oak barrels
and conform to the other stipulations of the Scotch Whisky Order of 1990. Irish
whiskey is an offshoot that uses some unmalted barely, which imparts a spicier flavor.
- Under the New Scotch Whisky Administration rules of 2005, there are two major
Scotch categories: single and blended. Single means that the entire product is from
a single distillery, while blended means that the product is composed of whiskies
from two or more distilleries. A “single malt” is thus a malt whisky from one distillery;
a “single grain” is a grain whisky from one distillery, and a blended Scotch whisky is
a mixture of malt and grain whiskies.
- Peat smoke flavor, associated with some Scotches, comes in a very early stage of
the spirit’s production: peat is burned to dry the barley before any mash or
fermentation. “The magic of peat is the enormous effect it has on the taste of the
final product even though it is only involved in the initial drying of the barley,” says
Bryan Hansen, a Whiskey Ambassador with Jim Beam brands.
BOURBON
- Closely associated with the rolling hills of
Kentucky, bourbon is named for an old,
large county where some of the first
Kentucky whiskies were set to port, which
was in turn named for a French family of
nobles who helped the colonials during the
Revolutionary War.
- According to a 1964 resolution of the
U.S. Congress, bourbon, “America’s Native
Spirit,” must be made in the United States
and it must consist of a minimum of 51
percent corn (maize), though most contain
more than 70 percent. It must be aged in
new charred oak containers, distilled to 160
proof or less, barreled at 125 proof or less,
and bottled at no less than 80 proof.
- While bourbon can be aged in new oak
containers for any period of time (seconds,
for that matter), it must be aged for a
minimum of two years in order to be
labeled “straight bourbon,” and only water
may be used to cut bourbon during any
part of its creation.
- Chris Morris, master distiller at Woodford
Reserve, says premium bourbon is not
unlike fine wine. “It should be so complex
that it requires multiple samplings to
ascertain what flavors it presents to the
palate,” he says. “It should exhibit a good
representation from the five areas of
bourbon flavor: sweet aromatics, spice,
fruit, wood and grain.”
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